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Pentapeptide-18

Gray market

1 human pilot study

Limited Human Data · 20 volunteers · two months · no control group · Dragomirescu 2014

Bottom line

Real enkephalin biology. One small peer-reviewed study. The other numbers are the manufacturer's.

Also called
  • Leuphasyl®
  • Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu
  • YaGFL
  • [D-Ala²]-Leu-enkephalin analog (Lipotec / Lubrizol)
Category
Cosmetic Peptide — Enkephalin Analog
Sequence
YaGFL (Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu)
Class
Enkephalin pentapeptide
Molecular Weight
~569.66 Da
Route (studied)
Topical (people)
Route (sold)
Topical serums and creams (cosmetic)
FDA Status
Cosmetic ingredient
Target
Enkephalin (DOR / MOR) receptors
Published Studies
Very limited (~2 peer-reviewed efficacy)
WADA Status
N/A — topical cosmetic
Cost & Access
Cosmetic ingredient

Also for skin & hair

The other four questions

What does it do? Its maker says it binds the enkephalin receptor on nerve cells and turns down the signal that makes facial muscles crease the skin, based on nerve-cell culture tests (Lipotec, 2005). It is sold as a partner to Argireline, which works by a separate mechanism (Lipotec, 2005).
Who uses it? Cosmetic formulators, in emulsions, gels and serums. Lipotec supplies it as a solution of 0.05% peptide and gives 3–10% of that solution in the finished product as the level for anti-wrinkle activity (Lipotec, 2005). Topical only.
Does the evidence hold up? Thin. One small 2014 study with no control group found wrinkle size 34.7% smaller between the brows and 28.4% smaller around the eyes with a 2% cream over two months (Dragomirescu et al., 2014). The 11.64% figure, and 24.62% with Argireline, come from the maker's own 28-day tests (Lipotec, 2005). An FDA lab study of Argireline, a larger cosmetic peptide, found 0.22% of the applied dose in the outer layer of human skin samples and none in the dermis (Kraeling et al., 2015).
Bottom line? Real enkephalin biology. One small peer-reviewed study. The other numbers are the manufacturer's.

Dosing from the Literature

Published for wrinkles: creams of 0.5%, 1% and 2% Leuphasyl, applied daily for two months in one small study with no control group; only 2% gave a clear change (Dragomirescu et al., 2014). Not published: a controlled trial of the peptide on its own.

Pentapeptide-18 is a topical cosmetic ingredient, not a parenteral peptide. "Dosing" here refers to formulation concentration in the finished cosmetic product and the frequency of topical application. The percentages below are of Leuphasyl, which Lipotec sells as a solution containing 0.05% of the peptide (Lipotec, 2005).

Formulation / RegimenConcentrationApplicationDuration, result and source
Leuphasyl alone, cream (published study)0.5%, 1% and 2% LeuphasylDaily, on the skin over the brow and eye musclesTwo months; only 2% gave a clear change: wrinkle size 34.7% smaller between the brows and 28.4% around the eyes. Study: Dragomirescu et al., 2014 — 20 volunteers aged 30 and over, no control group.
Leuphasyl alone, eye-area cream (manufacturer test)5% Leuphasyl solution (0.05% peptide)Twice daily around the eyes28 days; 11.64% mean wrinkle reduction (maximum 23.55%). Lipotec's dossier (Lipotec, 2005) — 14 volunteers aged 39–64.
Leuphasyl + Argireline, eye-area cream (manufacturer test)5% Leuphasyl solution + 5% Argireline solution (each 0.05% peptide)Twice daily around the eyes28 days; 24.62% mean wrinkle reduction (maximum 46.53%), against 16.26% for Argireline alone in 14 volunteers. Lipotec's dossier (Lipotec, 2005) — 15 volunteers aged 39–63.

Lipotec's dossier gives 3–10% of its Leuphasyl solution in the finished product as the level for anti-wrinkle activity, and says its tests used a placebo cream without reporting the placebo result (Lipotec, 2005). The 2014 authors saw a clear change only at 2% and call 2% the minimum active concentration (Dragomirescu et al., 2014).

Dosing Disclaimer

Pentapeptide-18 "dosing" is topical cosmetic formulation concentration — not a medical dose. The peptide is not legally available as an injectable, is not used parenterally in any reported context, and is not made to be injected. The concentrations above are the ones the 2014 study and Lipotec's dossier tested. Consult a licensed healthcare provider.

What It Is

Pentapeptide-18 is the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) name for a synthetic five-amino-acid peptide with the sequence Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu (abbreviated YaGFL, where lowercase "a" denotes the D-enantiomer of alanine). It is marketed under the trade name Leuphasyl® by Lipotec S.A.U., the Spanish peptide-chemistry firm now owned by the U.S. specialty chemicals company Lubrizol Corporation. The same laboratory group at Lipotec that developed Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8) designed Pentapeptide-18 as a mechanistically complementary topical peptide intended for use in anti-aging cosmetic formulations targeting expression wrinkles.

Structurally, Pentapeptide-18 is a single-point modification of the endogenous neuropeptide leucine-enkephalin (leu-enkephalin), one of the two principal enkephalins identified by John Hughes and Hans Kosterlitz in their landmark 1975 Nature paper describing endogenous opioid pentapeptides in porcine brain extract. Wild-type leu-enkephalin has the sequence Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu; Pentapeptide-18 replaces the second glycine residue with D-alanine. This single substitution is a classical medicinal-chemistry strategy borrowed directly from the Pert 1976 work that produced [D-Ala²]-met-enkephalinamide and the widely used research probe DADLE ([D-Ala²,D-Leu⁵]-enkephalin). The D-amino acid substitution at position 2 resists cleavage by aminopeptidase N, one of the primary enkephalin-degrading enzymes of the synaptic cleft and plasma, and dramatically extends the peptide's functional half-life relative to native leu-enkephalin (which is typically degraded within minutes in biological fluids).

Lipotec supplies Pentapeptide-18 as Leuphasyl Solution, 0.05% peptide in water and glycerin, and its dossier gives 3–10% of that solution in the finished product as the level for anti-wrinkle activity, in emulsions, gels or serums (Lipotec, 2005). It has a calculated molecular weight of approximately 569.66 daltons (monoisotopic mass 569.29) — meaningfully above the ~500 Da "500 Dalton rule" Bos and Meinardi articulated for passive stratum-corneum penetration, which is the central reason pentapeptide-18's in vivo efficacy is inferred to be constrained by the same dermal-permeation bottleneck that limits Argireline.

The compound exists exclusively as a cosmetic ingredient. It is not an injectable peptide, is not dispensed by U.S. compounding pharmacies, has no approved or unapproved medical indication, and is not the subject of any registered clinical trial on ClinicalTrials.gov at the time of this writing (April 2026). Its total body of peer-reviewed efficacy literature is smaller than that of almost any other peptide profiled on this site — two or three efficacy papers, a handful of mechanism-adjacent reviews, and a large footprint of manufacturer white papers and industry publications. This profile attempts to contextualize the compound honestly: a carefully designed analog of a well-characterized neuropeptide, deployed into an application (topical dermal delivery) where the pharmacology and the permeation barrier are in tension.

Mechanism of Action

Lipotec, the maker, proposes that Pentapeptide-18 acts like the body's enkephalins: it binds the enkephalin receptor on nerve cells, turns their activity down and modulates acetylcholine release, so that the muscles that crease the skin relax; it bases this on nerve-cell culture tests (Lipotec, 2005). No study has measured how much of the peptide crosses human skin to reach those nerves, and a review of anti-wrinkle peptides concludes that most may not reach their targets in the skin at the right concentrations (Mortazavi & Moghimi, 2022).

  • Enkephalin receptor agonism (presynaptic) — Native leu-enkephalin acts at delta-opioid receptors: in slices of rat striatum, it and the research analog DADLE ([D-Ala²,D-Leu⁵]-enkephalin) selectively inhibited acetylcholine release through them (Mulder et al., 1984). Pentapeptide-18 carries the same D-Ala² change as the related analog [D-Ala²]-Met-enkephalinamide, which bound opiate receptors almost as tightly as Met-enkephalin (Pert et al., 1976); no published study has measured Pentapeptide-18's own binding to opioid receptors. Lipotec's dossier says it couples to "the enkephalin receptor, on the outside of the nerve cells" (Lipotec, 2005).
  • Voltage-gated calcium channel inhibition — In cultured rat sensory (dorsal root ganglion) neurons, the delta agonist DADLE inhibited L-, N-, P- and Q-type high-voltage-activated Ca²⁺ currents through delta receptors, blocking 32% of the total current through calcium channels at 1 µM (Acosta & López, 1999). That was DADLE in sensory neurons; no study has tested Pentapeptide-18 on calcium channels or on the motor nerves of the face.
  • Reduced vesicular acetylcholine release — Lipotec proposes that the end result is less acetylcholine reaching the facial muscles, so that they contract less and crease the skin less; its dossier measured this indirectly, as lower glutamate release from nerve cells in culture (Lipotec, 2005). Mulder et al. (1984, Nature) demonstrated that [Leu⁵]-enkephalin and [D-Ala²,D-Leu⁵]-enkephalin selectively inhibit acetylcholine release in rat striatum by activating delta-opioid receptors: brain tissue, not the junction between nerve and muscle. This is the Botox-analog narrative in pentapeptide (a chain of 5 amino acids) form.
  • Complementarity with SNARE-class topical peptides — Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8) interferes with the SNARE complex that drives calcium-dependent neurotransmitter release (Blanes-Mira et al., 2002). Lipotec sells Pentapeptide-18 as its complement, saying the two work by independent mechanisms, and reports that together they cut glutamate release from cultured nerve cells more than either alone (Lipotec, 2005). In its 28-day tests, 5% Leuphasyl solution plus 5% Argireline solution gave a 24.62% mean wrinkle reduction in 15 volunteers (maximum 46.53%), against 11.64% for Leuphasyl alone in 14 (Lipotec, 2005). They are the manufacturer's own tests, reported in its dossier rather than in a peer-reviewed paper.
  • Resistance to enkephalinase degradation — The related analog [D-Ala²]-Met-enkephalinamide resisted degradation by brain enzymes, and 5–10 µg microinjected into rat brain gave long-lasting, morphine-like analgesia (Pert et al., 1976). Lipotec describes Leuphasyl as "an enkephalin modified for enhanced stability" (Lipotec, 2005). No study has measured how long Pentapeptide-18 lasts in skin.
  • Possible tyrosinase / melanogenesis interaction (derivative peptides) — Park et al. (2020, Scientific Reports) demonstrated that appending D-tyrosine to the C-terminus of Pentapeptide-18 (producing a hexapeptide derivative) inhibits melanin synthesis in MNT-1 human melanoma cells, primary human melanocytes, and 3D human skin models by reducing intracellular tyrosinase activity and MITF expression. This is a derivative-peptide effect rather than a property of native Pentapeptide-18 — but it establishes that this scaffold can be engineered toward anti-melanogenic activity (Park et al., 2020).
  • Absolute pharmacological ceiling — In Lipotec's nerve-cell test, botulinum toxin A cut glutamate release more than Leuphasyl, Argireline or the two together (Lipotec, 2005), and the 2014 study's authors call the peptide's effect "evidently inferior to botulinum toxin injections" (Dragomirescu et al., 2014). On skin it also has to cross the outer layer: a review of anti-wrinkle peptides notes that skin enzymes break peptides down and that most may not permeate well enough to reach their targets (Mortazavi & Moghimi, 2022).

What the Research Shows

The peer-reviewed efficacy evidence base for Pentapeptide-18 specifically — not its endogenous parent leu-enkephalin, and not the broader class of enkephalin analogs — is thin. It consists primarily of one cosmetic-chemistry trial (Dragomirescu 2014), one D-tyrosine derivative study in cell culture and reconstituted skin models (Park 2020), a small number of manufacturer brochures and conference posters (Lipotec 2005, Puig et al.), and mentions in cosmeceutical review articles (Errante et al. 2020; Schagen 2017; Mortazavi et al. 2022; Ledwoń et al. 2021; the 2024 Cosmetics review from Kyung Hee University, Korea)

  • Dragomirescu 2014 — single peer-reviewed human efficacy paper — Dragomirescu AO, Andoni M, Ionescu D, Andrei F. "The Efficiency and Safety of Leuphasyl—A Botox-Like Peptide." Cosmetics 2014;1(2):75–81. A study from a Romanian pharmacy faculty that formulated three emulsions — 0.5%, 1% and 2% Leuphasyl — which 20 volunteers aged 30 and over applied daily for two months over the corrugator supercilii and orbicularis oculi muscles, with wrinkle regression measured weekly by an imaging method (pro-derm Analyser); its stated aim was to find the optimal concentration. Only the 2% emulsion gave a clear change: wrinkle size was on average 34.7% smaller between the brows and 28.4% smaller around the eyes. The method measured wrinkles in two dimensions, and the authors state that it could not measure wrinkle depth. The wrinkle-depth percentages usually quoted for this peptide, about 11% alone and about 25% with Argireline, come from the manufacturer's own material, not from this paper. The paper's methodology is modest: a small cohort, no control or placebo arm, and no blinding or statistical testing described; the authors declare no conflict of interest. It is nevertheless the most rigorous peer-reviewed efficacy study available for the compound.
  • Manufacturer 2005 in-house study — Lipotec S.A. technical dossier (June 2005), re-cited in cosmetic reviews (Schagen, 2017; Errante et al., 2020): 5% Leuphasyl solution (0.05% peptide) twice daily around the eyes for 28 days produced an 11.64% mean wrinkle reduction in 14 volunteers aged 39–64 (maximum 23.55%). A combined 5% Leuphasyl + 5% Argireline arm produced approximately 24.62% mean wrinkle-depth reduction, with maximum individual reductions reported up to 46.53%. The dossier says the tests used a placebo cream but reports no placebo result. These tests have not been published in indexed peer-reviewed literature; they circulate in the manufacturer's dossier.
  • Park et al. 2020 — derivative peptide mechanism study — Park J, Jung H, Jang B, Song HK, Han IO, Oh ES. "D-tyrosine adds an anti-melanogenic effect to cosmetic peptides." Scientific Reports 2020;10(1):262. PMID 31937863. Replacing the N-terminal L-tyrosine with D-tyrosine, or adding a D-tyrosine at the C-terminus (a hexapeptide, a chain of 6 amino acids), gave Pentapeptide-18 variants that decreased melanin content and tyrosinase activity in MNT-1 melanoma cells and normal human melanocytes; the C-terminal variant also reduced melanin in the epidermal basal layer of a 3D reconstituted human skin model, the only variant tested there. A derivative-only finding — but the only peer-reviewed mechanism paper involving the Pentapeptide-18 scaffold specifically.
  • Cosmeceutical review context — Errante F, Ledwoń P, Latajka R, Rovero P, Papini AM. "Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy." Front Chem 2020;8:572923. PMID 33195061. Classifies Leuphasyl/Pentapeptide-18 within the "neurotransmitter-affecting peptides" subcategory, alongside Argireline, Vialox, Syn-Ake, and acetyl-octapeptide variants. On Leuphasyl's effects it cites the 2014 study for wrinkle reduction and Lipotec's dossier for the synergy with Argireline (Errante et al., 2020).
  • Enkephalin foundational pharmacology — The mechanism inference rests on the half-century of enkephalin neuropharmacology that followed Hughes and Kosterlitz's 1975 Nature discovery. Hughes J, Smith TW, Kosterlitz HW, Fothergill LA, Morgan BA, Morris HR. "Identification of two related pentapeptides from the brain with potent opiate agonist activity." Nature 1975;258(5536):577–580. PMID 1207728. Mulder et al. 1984 (Nature) further established that [Leu⁵]-enkephalin and [D-Ala²,D-Leu⁵]-enkephalin selectively inhibit acetylcholine release via delta-opioid receptors — the cholinergic-inhibition finding that underwrites the entire Leuphasyl mechanism claim.
  • Skin permeation constraint — most critical independent signal — Kraeling et al. 2015 and subsequent follow-up work on Argireline (MW 889 Da, PMID 24754410) found that roughly 0.22% of topically applied 10% peptide formulation is retained within the stratum corneum, with 0.01% in the epidermis and none detected in the dermis or in the fluid beneath the skin.
  • Meta-review framing — A 2024 review from Kyung Hee University, Korea (MDPI Cosmetics, "Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy: Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives") credits Botox with "up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week", and re-cites the 2014 study's 34.7% and 28.4% as reductions in wrinkle depth, although that study measured wrinkle size in two dimensions and says it could not measure depth (Dragomirescu et al., 2014). The effect-size gap is structural, not incremental.
  • Absence of negative trials — There are no formally published negative or null trials of Pentapeptide-18. This is not evidence of efficacy; it is evidence that the compound has not been subjected to the kind of well-powered placebo-controlled independent testing that produces null results. The peer-reviewed evidence base is too small for null-result publication bias to have shifted the literature.
Critical Context — Evidence Quality

Pentapeptide-18 efficacy claims derive almost entirely from (1) manufacturer-sponsored in-house studies published as industry white papers, (2) a single open-label peer-reviewed cosmetic-chemistry paper with modest methodology (Dragomirescu 2014), and (3) mechanism inferences extrapolated from well-characterized enkephalin pharmacology. There are no independent placebo-controlled randomized trials, no dermatology-journal-indexed efficacy studies, and no biopsy or intradermal-concentration data demonstrating that the peptide reaches a biologically active concentration at cutaneous motor nerve terminals after topical application. The mechanism is plausible; the evidence base is thin. The largest figures quoted for it, 34.7% and 28.4% smaller wrinkles, come from the 20-volunteer 2014 study, which had no control group and measured wrinkle size in two dimensions, not depth (Dragomirescu et al., 2014).

Human Data

Human evidence for Pentapeptide-18 is limited to small cosmetic-chemistry studies; the two cited here are one from a university pharmacy faculty (Dragomirescu et al., 2014) and the manufacturer's own tests (Lipotec, 2005). No interventional trials are registered on ClinicalTrials.gov; no medical indication has been pursued; no ophthalmic, neurological, or dermatological regulatory submission exists.

  • Dragomirescu 2014 — open-label cosmetic study — Twenty volunteers aged 30 and over with expression wrinkles applied emulsions of 0.5%, 1% and 2% Leuphasyl daily for two months over the corrugator supercilii and orbicularis oculi muscles; the paper set out to find the optimal concentration, and measured wrinkle regression weekly with an imaging method (pro-derm Analyser). Only the 2% emulsion gave a clear change: wrinkle size was on average 34.7% smaller between the brows and 28.4% smaller around the eyes, and volunteers' own scores were higher in younger people and for the brow area. The percentages quoted for this peptide in cosmetic material, about 11% alone and about 25% with Argireline, are not in this paper. Tolerability: the authors conclude the peptide is "absolutely free from side effects" but do not describe how side effects were recorded. Weaknesses: no placebo/vehicle control, no blinding described, small cohort, wrinkle size measured in two dimensions only (the authors say depth could not be measured); the authors declare no conflict of interest. Published in Cosmetics (MDPI) — a journal that falls within the cosmetic-sciences publishing ecosystem rather than dermatology or clinical medicine.
  • Lipotec 2005 internal dossier — Small in-house tests (around the eyes, 28 days, measured on silicone skin replicas) form the foundation of the efficacy brochure distributed to formulators. The two most-cited findings: 5% Leuphasyl solution alone producing an 11.64% mean wrinkle reduction in 14 volunteers; 5% Leuphasyl + 5% Argireline solutions producing 24.62% in 15 (maximum 46.53%). The dossier says a placebo cream was used but gives no placebo result. These have not been published in indexed peer-reviewed journals.
  • In-use observational data from commercial serums — Hundreds of cosmetic products incorporating Pentapeptide-18 at concentrations from 0.5% to 5% have been sold globally since 2007. Post-market consumer and clinician observation suggests the peptide is well tolerated topically — no widely reported sensitization cluster, no consumer-advocacy safety alerts, no voluntary recalls of Pentapeptide-18-specific formulations attributable to the peptide. This is observational, not trial-quality, evidence.
  • No interventional medical trials — A search of ClinicalTrials.gov as of April 2026 returns no registered trials of Pentapeptide-18 or Leuphasyl. The compound has no orphan designation, no investigational-new-drug pathway, and no cosmetic-device regulatory filing beyond standard INCI listing. It is a cosmetic active, full stop.
  • No injection, infusion, or systemic human data — Pentapeptide-18 has never been administered subcutaneously, intramuscularly, intravenously, or orally to humans in a reported study. The D-Ala² modification confers metabolic stability that could theoretically support systemic delivery, but no one has pursued it. All human data, everywhere, is topical.
  • No pharmacokinetic or intradermal concentration data — The single largest gap in the evidence base is the absence of human pharmacokinetic / skin-retention data demonstrating that Pentapeptide-18, as topically applied, actually reaches cutaneous motor nerve terminals in biologically relevant concentrations. The analogous Kraeling 2015 data on Argireline (0.22% stratum-corneum retention, essentially no deep-dermal penetration) is the closest available proxy and suggests the dermal-permeation bottleneck dominates in vivo efficacy.

In aggregate, the human data cited here come from one small university study (Dragomirescu et al., 2014) and the manufacturer's own tests (Lipotec, 2005): cosmetic-chemistry in methodology, small, and with no placebo result published. Foundational enkephalin neuropharmacology (Hughes 1975; Mulder 1984; Acosta & López 1999) informs the mechanism; the cosmetic efficacy evidence is thin.

Reconstitution & Storage

Lipotec makes Pentapeptide-18 as a freeze-dried powder and supplies it as Leuphasyl Solution: 0.5 g of the peptide per liter (0.05%) in water and glycerin, preserved with 0.5% caprylyl glycol (Lipotec, 2005). "Reconstitution" in the cosmetic formulation context refers to mixing that solution into a finished serum, cream, or emulsion.

FormatSupplyCarrier / SolventFinished Concentration
Leuphasyl Solution (Lipotec)0.05% peptide (0.5 g/L)Water and glycerin, with 0.5% caprylyl glycol as preservative3–10% of the finished product, the level Lipotec's dossier gives for anti-wrinkle activity (Lipotec, 2005)
  • pH range — Formulation guides describe keeping it out of strongly alkaline bases (pH >8). Lipotec's dossier gives no pH range (Lipotec, 2005).
  • Temperature during formulation — Lipotec's dossier says the solution can be added at the final stage of manufacture, provided the temperature is below 40°C (Lipotec, 2005).
  • Compatibility — Lipotec's dossier lists emulsions, gels and serums among the formulations it can go into (Lipotec, 2005). Formulation guides describe keeping it apart from strong oxidizers, high-concentration vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid below pH 3.5) and retinoic-acid systems at pH extremes.
  • Storage — Leuphasyl Solution and powder — Lipotec's dossier gives a shelf life of at least 12 months for the solution kept in a cool, dark, clean place, and at least 18 months for the solution or powder kept at 4°C; cold storage can occasionally make the preservative precipitate, which the dossier says does not affect the product (Lipotec, 2005). Some seller listings give −20°C for long-term storage of the powder.
  • Freezing — Some product labels advise against freezing finished emulsions.

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Side Effects & Risks

Important

Topical cosmetic peptide. One small peer-reviewed study (Dragomirescu et al., 2014). Combining it with retinoids or other actives is a question for a licensed healthcare provider.

Safety data on Pentapeptide-18 are few: the manufacturer's own safety tests (Lipotec, 2005) and one sentence in the 2014 study (Dragomirescu et al., 2014). A PubMed search finds no case report naming it (October 2026).

  • Topical tolerability — The 2014 study's 20 volunteers applied 0.5–2% creams daily for two months; the authors conclude the peptide is "absolutely free from side effects" without describing how side effects were recorded (Dragomirescu et al., 2014). In Lipotec's patch test, Leuphasyl Solution held on the skin of 10 volunteers for 48 hours gave irritation scores of 0, and its cell-toxicity, Ames (genotoxicity) and HET-CAM (eye-irritation) screens were negative (Lipotec, 2005). The European Commission's Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) lists Pentapeptide-18 as a skin-conditioning ingredient without restriction or risk categorization.
  • Hypersensitivity — A PubMed search finds no case report of allergy to Pentapeptide-18 (October 2026), and no published study has tested whether it sensitizes skin; the manufacturer's patch test measured irritation, not sensitization (Lipotec, 2005).
  • Systemic opioid activity — Theoretical concern only. No study has measured Pentapeptide-18 in blood after use on skin. In the closest analog study, an FDA lab applied a 10% Argireline cream to human skin samples for 24 hours and found 0.22% of the dose in the stratum corneum, 0.01% in the epidermis and none in the dermis or the fluid beneath the skin (Kraeling et al., 2015). A PubMed search finds no report of opioid-like effects (pupillary miosis, sedation, respiratory depression, euphoria, constipation) from cosmetic Pentapeptide-18 (October 2026).
  • Use around the eye / eyelid — Both human tests applied it around the eyes (Dragomirescu et al., 2014; Lipotec, 2005). Lipotec's HET-CAM test, an egg-membrane screen for eye irritation, rated it "potentially not irritating for the eyes" (Lipotec, 2005).
  • Pregnancy and lactation — No human data: no study has tested it in pregnancy or breastfeeding.
  • Pediatric use — All the human tests enrolled adults: aged 30 and over in the 2014 study (Dragomirescu et al., 2014), and 18 to 70 in the manufacturer's patch test and 39 to 64 in its wrinkle tests (Lipotec, 2005).
  • Interactions with botulinum toxin injections — No peer-reviewed trial has tested Pentapeptide-18 with botulinum toxin. Schagen's 2017 review, in its section on Pentapeptide-18, describes a trade-journal report in which 22 women given botulinum toxin around the eyes also used a topical treatment twice daily for six months, and says the topical "potentiated" the toxin and "extended the anti-wrinkle benefit"; it does not mention side effects (Schagen, 2017).
  • Permeation-enhancement caveat — For other anti-wrinkle peptides (carnosine, GHK, PKEK, GEKG, GQPR and KTTKS), approaches such as microneedles, iontophoresis, chemical permeation enhancers and nanocarriers increased skin permeability in the studies reviewed by Mortazavi & Moghimi (2022); Pentapeptide-18 is not among the peptides the review lists.

Bloodwork & Monitoring

No trial, label or guideline sets monitoring for Pentapeptide-18, and no study has measured it in blood. The human tests measured wrinkles only: weekly skin imaging and the volunteers' own scores in the 2014 study (Dragomirescu et al., 2014), and silicone replicas of the skin around the eyes in the manufacturer's tests (Lipotec, 2005).

  • No WADA / sport monitoring — Topical cosmetic. Not a systemic performance-enhancing agent. Athletes using Leuphasyl-containing cosmetics have no documented sport-regulatory concern; see Legal Status below.

Commonly Stacked With

Lipotec sells Pentapeptide-18 as a complement to its Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8) and tested the pair in its own 28-day study (Lipotec, 2005).

The flagship Lipotec pairing. Argireline interferes with the SNARE complex that drives calcium-dependent neurotransmitter release (Blanes-Mira et al., 2002); Lipotec says Pentapeptide-18 works by an independent mechanism, through the enkephalin receptor, and markets the two as complementary (Lipotec, 2005). In its 28-day tests, the 5% + 5% combination gave a 24.62% mean wrinkle reduction, against 11.64% for Leuphasyl and 16.26% for Argireline alone (Lipotec, 2005). The 2014 study tested Leuphasyl on its own; its authors call a mix with Argireline "ideal" in their opinion (Dragomirescu et al., 2014).

Tested together in people: none published · only the maker’s own 28-day tests (Lipotec, 2005) · Read the receipt →

Stacking this? Read the receipt →

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Legal Status

Current Status — April 2026

Pentapeptide-18 is listed in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) directory as a cosmetic ingredient. It is an approved cosmetic ingredient in the United States (21 CFR 700 compliant cosmetic), the European Union (listed in the CosIng database without restriction), Japan, South Korea, and most major cosmetic regulatory jurisdictions worldwide.

In the United States, Pentapeptide-18 falls under the FDA's cosmetics regulatory authority (Federal Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act, Title 21). Cosmetic ingredients do not require pre-market FDA approval; the responsibility for safety substantiation lies with the manufacturer. Pentapeptide-18 is not an approved drug, is not listed as a bulk drug substance eligible for compounding under Section 503A/503B, and was not among the 12 peptides FDA removed from Category 2 in April 2026 (FDA 503A categories list, April 22, 2026).

In the European Union, Pentapeptide-18 is listed in the CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredients) database and is regulated under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. There are no concentration restrictions or warning-label requirements currently in force. Safety responsibility lies with the cosmetic product Responsible Person.

Pentapeptide-18 is not on the WADA Prohibited List. The World Anti-Doping Agency's prohibited substances are focused on systemically-delivered performance-enhancing compounds. A topical cosmetic peptide with negligible systemic bioavailability and no demonstrated performance-enhancing activity is outside the scope of current anti-doping surveillance. Athletes using Leuphasyl-containing cosmetics have no documented sport-regulatory concern at the topical-use concentrations sold commercially.

Pentapeptide-18 is not classified as a drug in any major jurisdiction. It has not been the subject of a therapeutic-products regulatory submission; there is no investigational-new-drug pathway, no orphan-drug designation, and no registered clinical trial. Its regulatory identity is entirely cosmetic, anywhere in the world.

Cost & Access

Pentapeptide-18 is widely available as a cosmetic ingredient in finished consumer products and as a bulk raw material for cosmetic formulators. It is sold as a finished serum or cream by hundreds of skincare brands globally at a range of price tiers from budget drugstore formulations (low concentrations) to luxury prestige multi-peptide formulations. Access does not require a prescription; the peptide is not scheduled, restricted, or quantity-limited.

For formulators, Pentapeptide-18 is supplied as a bulk raw material by Lipotec/Lubrizol (the originator, under the Leuphasyl® trade name) and by a number of generic peptide manufacturers in China, South Korea, and the United States. Bulk pricing reflects a commodity-peptide market and has declined substantially since the original 2007 commercial launch as manufacturing has scaled globally. Research-grade peptide vendors sell Pentapeptide-18 as a laboratory reagent labeled for research and formulation development use only.

Leuphasyl was not among the 12 peptides FDA removed from Category 2 in April 2026 — that change concerned injectable research peptides (BPC-157, injectable GHK-Cu, TB-500 and others) and their 503A compounding pathway, a different regulatory space entirely. Topical cosmetic peptides continue to be regulated under the FDA's cosmetics framework with no indication of impending reclassification.

Estimated pricing as of April 2026. Actual costs vary by provider, location, and prescription status. Kalios does not sell compounds.

References

  1. Hughes J, Smith TW, Kosterlitz HW, Fothergill LA, Morgan BA, Morris HR. Identification of two related pentapeptides from the brain with potent opiate agonist activity. Nature. 1975 Dec 18;258(5536):577-580. doi:10.1038/258577a0. PMID: 1207728. (The landmark Hughes & Kosterlitz paper identifying methionine- and leucine-enkephalin as endogenous opioid pentapeptides — the foundational discovery upon which the entire Leuphasyl mechanism is built.)
  2. Dragomirescu AO, Andoni M, Ionescu D, Andrei F. The Efficiency and Safety of Leuphasyl—A Botox-Like Peptide. Cosmetics. 2014;1(2):75-81. doi:10.3390/cosmetics1020075. (Only peer-reviewed open-label human efficacy paper specific to Pentapeptide-18; manufacturer-adjacent but methodologically the most robust available.)
  3. Park J, Jung H, Jang B, Song HK, Han IO, Oh ES. D-tyrosine adds an anti-melanogenic effect to cosmetic peptides. Sci Rep. 2020 Jan 14;10(1):262. doi:10.1038/s41598-019-57159-3. PMID: 31937863; PMCID: PMC6959337. (Mechanism study of D-tyrosine-modified Pentapeptide-18 derivatives in melanocytes and 3D human skin models.)
  4. Errante F, Ledwoń P, Latajka R, Rovero P, Papini AM. Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy. Front Chem. 2020 Oct 30;8:572923. doi:10.3389/fchem.2020.572923. PMID: 33195061; PMCID: PMC7662462. (Comprehensive cosmeceutical-peptide review including Pentapeptide-18 / Leuphasyl classification and evidence appraisal.)
  5. Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernández-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L, Pérez-Payá E, Ferrer-Montiel A. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002 Oct;24(5):303-310. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x. PMID: 18498523. (Original Argireline characterization paper — essential reference for the SNARE-postsynaptic mechanism that complements Leuphasyl's presynaptic action.)
  6. Mulder AH, Wardeh G, Hogenboom F, Frankhuyzen AL. Kappa- and delta-opioid receptor agonists differentially inhibit striatal dopamine and acetylcholine release. Nature. 1984 Mar 15-21;308(5956):278-280. doi:10.1038/308278a0. PMID: 6322011. (Demonstrates that [Leu⁵]-enkephalin and [D-Ala²,D-Leu⁵]-enkephalin selectively inhibit acetylcholine release via delta-opioid receptors — the cholinergic-inhibition pharmacology at the core of Leuphasyl's mechanism claim.)
  7. Acosta CG, López HS. delta opioid receptor modulation of several voltage-dependent Ca(2+) currents in rat sensory neurons. J Neurosci. 1999 Oct 1;19(19):8337-8348. doi:10.1523/JNEUROSCI.19-19-08337.1999. PMID: 10493735; PMCID: PMC6783030. (Direct electrophysiological evidence that DADLE, a DOR-selective enkephalin analog structurally related to Pentapeptide-18, inhibits L-, N-, P-, and Q-type HVA Ca²⁺ channels.)
  8. Hughes J, Kosterlitz HW, Smith TW. The distribution of methionine-enkephalin and leucine-enkephalin in the brain and peripheral tissues. Br J Pharmacol. 1977 Dec;61(4):639-647. doi:10.1111/j.1476-5381.1977.tb07557.x. PMID: 597668. (Follow-up Hughes/Kosterlitz distribution paper establishing the peripheral-tissue localization of leucine-enkephalin relevant to cutaneous nerve-terminal mechanism claims.)
  9. Cullen JM, Cascella M. Physiology, Enkephalin. StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2024. PMID: 32491696. (Comprehensive physiology review of enkephalin structure, receptor pharmacology, and degradation — useful pharmacology reference for the Leuphasyl mechanism narrative.)
  10. Mortazavi SM, Moghimi HR. Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Apr;44(2):232-248. doi:10.1111/ics.12770. PMID: 35302659. (Independent review of the skin-permeation bottleneck that constrains all topical anti-wrinkle peptides, including Pentapeptide-18 and Argireline; identifies the stratum corneum as the dominant efficacy limit.)
  11. Schagen SK. Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16. doi:10.3390/cosmetics4020016. (Peer-reviewed cosmeceutical review that includes Leuphasyl/Pentapeptide-18 within the broader taxonomy of topical anti-aging peptides.)
  12. Kraeling ME, Zhou W, Wang P, Ogunsola OA. In vitro skin penetration of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from a cosmetic formulation. Cutan Ocul Toxicol. 2015 Mar;34(1):46-52. doi:10.3109/15569527.2014.894521. PMID: 24754410. (Permeation analog study — demonstrates that ~0.22% of topically applied Argireline (MW 889 Da) penetrates the stratum corneum with no detectable dermis penetration; the most directly applicable permeation data for Pentapeptide-18 by structural analogy.)
  13. Pert CB, Pert A, Chang JK, Fong BT. [D-Ala2]-Met-enkephalinamide: a potent, long-lasting synthetic pentapeptide analgesic. Science. 1976 Oct 15;194(4262):330-332. doi:10.1126/science.968485. PMID: 968485. (Seminal D-Ala² substitution paper — the medicinal-chemistry precedent for the exact modification (Gly²→D-Ala²) that produced Pentapeptide-18 from leu-enkephalin.)
  14. Ledwoń P, Errante F, Papini AM, Rovero P, Latajka R. Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry. Chem Biodivers. 2021 Feb;18(2):e2000833. doi:10.1002/cbdv.202000833. PMID: 33348441. (Cosmeceutical-peptide review with specific Pentapeptide-18 discussion; frames the evidence-quality challenge across the cosmetic-peptide category.)
  15. Reddy B, Jow T, Hantash BM. Bioactive oligopeptides in dermatology: Part I. Exp Dermatol. 2012 Aug;21(8):569-575. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2012.01528.x. PMID: 22672743. (Dermatology-journal review of bioactive cosmetic oligopeptides including the neurotransmitter-affecting peptide class to which Pentapeptide-18 belongs.)
  16. Wang Y, Wang M, Xiao S, Pan P, Li P, Huo J. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2013 Apr;14(2):147-153. doi:10.1007/s40257-013-0009-9. PMID: 23417317. (Placebo-controlled Argireline efficacy trial providing the best-characterized comparator data for the companion peptide most often stacked with Leuphasyl.)
  17. Hoppel M, Reznicek G, Kählig H, Kotisch H, Resch GP, Valenta C. Topical delivery of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from different emulsions: influence of emulsion composition and internal structure. Eur J Pharm Sci. 2015 Feb 20;68:27-35. doi:10.1016/j.ejps.2014.12.006. PMID: 25497319. (Vehicle-formulation permeation study relevant to Pentapeptide-18 formulation science; establishes that W/O/W multiple emulsions significantly enhance small-peptide skin penetration versus simple O/W.)
  18. Lim SH, Sun Y, Thiruvallur Madanagopal T, Rosa V, Kang L. Enhanced Skin Permeation of Anti-wrinkle Peptides via Molecular Modification. Sci Rep. 2018 Jan 22;8(1):1596. doi:10.1038/s41598-017-18454-z. PMID: 29371611; PMCID: PMC5785486. (Molecular-modification strategies for improving anti-wrinkle-peptide skin permeation — directly applicable to the permeation-bottleneck framing of Pentapeptide-18 delivery.)
  19. Zhang L, Falla TJ. Cosmeceuticals and peptides. Clin Dermatol. 2009 Sep-Oct;27(5):485-494. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.05.013. PMID: 19695481. (Foundational dermatology-journal review of cosmeceutical peptides that contextualizes Leuphasyl within the neurotransmitter-affecting peptide category.)
  20. Lipotec S.A. LEUPHASYL®: A New Pentapeptide for Expression Wrinkles. Technical dossier / formulator brochure. Barcelona: Lipotec; 2005. (Originator manufacturer dossier, widely re-cited across cosmetic industry literature; source of the 11.64% stand-alone and 24.62% Leuphasyl + Argireline combination wrinkle-depth reduction figures. Industry white paper, not peer-reviewed.)
  21. FDA. Bulk Drug Substances Nominated for Use in Compounding Under Section 503A of the FD&C Act (503A categories list), versions updated April 15, April 22 and May 14, 2026. fda.gov/media/94155/download. Read October 3, 2026. (Notice that 12 peptides would leave Category 2 because their nominations were withdrawn; their removal; GHK-Cu, except injectable, back in Category 1.)

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Checked 18 Oct 2026